Are you looking to cross from Tajikistan into Afghanistan but unsure how the visa-on-arrival process works at the Sher Khan Bandar border? Afghanistan isn’t exactly on the radar for many travellers, so reliable, up-to-date info can be hard to find. Don’t worry, I’ve got you.
I crossed the border in September 2024 with a British passport, so I’ll start by sharing the practical details for entering Afghanistan via the Sher Khan Bandar crossing — everything I wish I had known when researching how to make the crossing myself.
Practical Information for Entering Afghanistan via Shir Kan Bandar Border
Passport photos
You will need at least two passport photos. As usual, men, you can wear whatever you like in the photos. But ladies, I’d advise wearing a headscarf. I went to one of the many passport photo shops in Dushanbe and got two sets printed: one with a headscarf and one without. When I reached the border, I opted to hand them the headscarf photos out of respect.
Although, since then, I’ve spoken to a few other female travellers who travelled through Afghanistan, and they told me they used normal passport photos. So do as you feel fit.
Also, it’s not an absolute must to bring passport photos. If you forget or don’t have time to get some taken in Dushanbe, it’s no problem. You’ll have the opportunity to get some photos taken when you go to the Afghan bank to pay for your visa. But it’ll be easier if you have some prepared.
Dress appropriately
This advice mainly applies to women. Men, you’ll need to wear trousers (as opposed to shorts) at the very least. But women, you’ll need to fully cover yourself. Buy at least one long dress and a headscarf in advance. Leading up to the crossing, I reached out to another female traveller who had been to Afghanistan, and she advised me to buy a black long dress. I found one in a market in Dushanbe and paid 100 TL for it. When you reach the border, you’ll be interviewed by a man who, from my experience, seemed to be the key decision-maker on whether you’re allowed to enter. I personally felt much more respected and comfortable wearing a black dress and headscarf during this interaction.
Once you enter any of the major cities, you’ll be able to stock up on more clothes, but at least have one you can wear at the border to enter.
Bring all the cash you need to travel in Afghanistan
Cash is king in Afghanistan, and international cards are not accepted. You must bring as much USD as you think you’ll need to cover the entire trip. There are exchange spots everywhere.
At the Sher Khan Bandar border, you can exchange Tajikistani Somoni (TJS) or USD into Afghan Afghani (AFN). I would advise exchanging only as much as you need for the visa and saving the rest to exchange in Kunduz, Kabul, or any other Afghan city.
I first exchanged some TFS for AFN at the border to pay for my visa, and then 100 USD for AFN in Kunduz. Eventually, I exchanged the rest of my USD at Sarai Shahzada, the famous currency exchange market in Kabul.
How much is the Afghanistan visa-on-arrival at the Sher Khan border?
In September 2024, I paid AFN 5800 for a one-month tourist visa at the Shir Kan Bandar border. This was USD 82 at the time. As mentioned, I exchanged some TFS for AFN at the border to pay for the visa at the bank around 2 km from the border.
What nationalities are eligible for the visa-on-arrival at Sher khan Bandar Border?
All nationalities are eligible for the visa at the Sher Khan Bandar border.
How to reach THE Sher Khan Border (Afghanistan) from Dushanbe (TAJIKISTAN)?
There are two ways to reach the Sher Khan Border from Dushanbe in Afghanistan: the budget version or the slightly more expensive (but definitely easier) one.
- Shared taxi: (TJS 100 – 150, depending on your bargaining skills): Take a taxi from Sakhovat Bazaar. We took a 10-minute taxi from our hostel, Green House Hostel, at 6 am to reach the bazaar. Don’t worry about not being able to find the drivers, they’ll run at you. Within 5 minutes of reaching there, the shared taxi was full and we were off!
- Bus + taxi: Take the 8 am AsianExpress bus from Dushanbe to Dusti (a town close to the Sher Khan Bandar border). It costs TJS 40. However, you need to be aware that from Dusti, you’ll need to pay around TJS 50-100 for a taxi to the border. If you’re a few people, this way works out the cheapest.
Although Option 2 is probably cheaper if you’re travelling with a group, I wouldn’t recommend it—you’re likely to reach the border later in the morning, and the visa process can take a while. It’s best to arrive at the border by 9 am, ready to cross.
Crossing the Sher Khan Bandar Border as a tourist
So, I initially intended to enter Afghanistan solo, but after meeting Jacob, an American guy in a hostel in Kyrgyzstan who was also planning on travelling to Afghanistan, we decided to enter and travel together. It was the best decision, and I was so grateful for his company.
I just want to clear something up for my fellow female travellers. A few weeks before entering, I had read on internet forums that women were not allowed to enter Afghanistan, especially at the Sher Khan Border, solo. But from my experience, this is not true. I think if I were not with Jacob, I would’ve still been able to enter. On my visa application form, I ticked the box for “single” and “unaccompanied” and it was still accepted.
So anyway! Jacob and I agreed to meet in Dushanbe a few weeks after our meeting in Kyrgyzstan and crossed the border together. We took the 6 am shared taxi as I mentioned above and reached the border around 8.30 am.
Exiting Tajikistan at Panji Poyan (Tajikistan)
The border opens at 9 am, and not before. So be there, ready! There was one motorcyclist from Bulgaria who was waiting to cross with us.
Exiting Tajikistan into Afghanistan was really quick and easy for us; we didn’t have any problems.
Crossing the “Friendship” Bridge
Initially, we read that you could walk across the bridge, which is essentially “a no man’s land” between Afghanistan and Tajikistan, but once we were stamped out of Tajikistan, the border guard instructed us to sit and wait for a jeep. We insisted that we walk across, but he shook his head and told us it’s prohibited.
So, we waited 10 minutes and then the jeep arrived. We paid 10 somani. Just as the doors of the jeep were about to close, the Tajik border guard signalled for me to put on my headscarf. When the door opened a few minutes later, I felt like I had entered a completely different world.
My Personal Experience at the Sher Khan Bandar Border, Afghanistan
As we crossed, we were instructed to leave our bags with the guards and enter a separate building. In the first room, five Talibs were “working,” but really only two of them seemed to be actually working. Only one of the guys spoke English and asked us where we were from, what type of visa we wanted, etc.
And then after 10 minutes, we were called into a room to be interviewed by a man who seemed to be in a high position, deciding whether we could get the visa. He asked what provinces we intended to visit, and noted them on his phone. He then asked us what our relationship was, and we said “together but not married”. He seemed okay with that.
At around 10.30 am, we were handed slips of paper to take to the bank. It’s quite a strange system, but essentially, you need to leave the border and get a 5-minute taxi to the centre of town. The taxi cost AFN 200. The taxi drivers know where to go, so don’t worry. But just to warn you, ours tried to overcharge us, so stick with your guns and pay only the AFN 200.
Before the bank, we stopped on the “high street” of the dusty town and exchanged some somani for Afghan Afghani, enough to cover our visa.
Then we drove another minute to the bank. There, we were taken to three different rooms. I’m not sure exactly why or what they did in each room, but after 15 minutes, we were out of there and back to the border. The bank workers were extremely friendly and interested in discussing life in the UK and the USA.
By 11, we were back at the border and went straight to the building where the visas were being processed. We showed them the bank receipt, and then we were given an application form to fill out—mostly basic personal details, along with a few questions about our occupations, marital status, etc.
We were handed our passports an hour later with the visa stuck in, but it was a little too late, and passport control was on lunch break. They usually take lunch between 12 and 1 pm, so we had to wait. They ended up reopening the border a little earlier for us, and we entered Afghanistan “officially” just before 1 pm—4 hours after initially arriving at the border.
After Crossing the Sher Khan Bandar Border
The closest city to the border is Kunduz, a place many travellers just stop in for one night before heading to Mazar-e Sharif or Kabul. Some even skip it, but I really would recommend staying at least one night!
How to get from Sher Khan Bandar to Kunduz?
The only way to get from Sher Khan Bandar Border to Kunduz is by taxi. We crossed the border with two Afghans and shared a taxi with them to Kunduz. The price is AFN 200 per person, or AFN 800 for the whole taxi. It should only take an hour or so.
In Kunduz, I would recommend staying at either Five Star Guest House ($) (like Jacob and I did) or Kunduz Hotel and guest house($$). You definitely don’t need to book anything in advance, just turn up and negotiate a price. Jacob and I paid AFN 1500 for a big five-bedroom (definitely not needed, but it was nice to have the space!).
Remember that as soon as you drop your bags at the hotel, you’ll need to acquire a second stamp at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Only when you get this second stamp will you be officially in Afghanistan.
Second stamp at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs
At the border, they told us that the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Kunduz closes at 4 pm, so we headed straight there. It’s located on the outskirts of town, so you’ll need to take a taxi or tuk-tuk.
Travel permits at the Ministry of Information and Culture
After you obtain your second stamp, it’s time to get your travel permit. Afghanistan has 34 provinces, and to travel within the country, the Taliban require permits for each province you enter.
The Ministry of Information and Culture (وزارت ) in Kunduz is here.
At the Ministry of Information and Culture, we were asked which provinces we wanted to visit and were granted them all at once on one piece of paper. All provinces have a Ministry of Information and Culture, so if there’s a province you forgot to add to the permit, you can obtain one later on in your trip.
So that’s a wrap on this guide on how to cross the Sher Khan Bandar border based on my own experience. I hope you found it useful, and as always, reach out if you have any questions.
Also, to add! While travelling through Afghanistan, I made short videos documenting my experience daily. You can find the one where I crossed the border here.