I first came across Plovdiv on a ‘Best destinations in Bulgaria’ Google search, and after reading it was the European City of Culture in 2019, I decided to visit en route to Burgas Coliving. Since my first visit in April 2023, I’ve been back twice and now feel it’s time to share a guide to Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s 2nd (but best in my opinion) city.
Like me, you may not have heard of Plovdiv because its sister, Sofia, always takes 1st place in people’s minds when they think of Bulgaria. Oh, or maybe Sunny Beach, but let’s forget about that one.
Plovdiv has an insane history which you can see as soon as you walk into the centre. It’s so easy to see the civilisations that existed here as they’ve built upon one another. Walking down the main street, you’ve got an Ottoman Mosque to your right, a harsh communist building to your left and a Roman Amphitheatre underneath your feet.
Its history dates back 8,000, making it the oldest lived-in city in Europe and 6th worldwide. Yeah, insane. And it wasn’t on my radar until recently. To get the most out of your trip to this underrated cultural and historical Bulgarian city, keep reading!
TALKING REAL, IS PLOVDIV SAFE?
Bulgaria in general is a pretty safe country and Plovdiv is no different. I often walked home in the dark to my Airbnb or hostel and never felt unsafe.
RECOMMENDED DAYS IN PLOVDIV?
I’d definitely say you can see everything in 2 days but add on an extra day for going out of the city on a hike or trip to the Monestary.
Where to stay in Plovdiv? | Neighbourhood Guide
Despite having a population of 350,000, Plovdiv doesn’t feel like a big city and no matter where you choose to stay, you’ll never be further than a 15 bus ride from the centre.
Kapana District
If you’re looking to go out for dinner or grab some drinks with friends, Kapana is the place to go.
Translated as “trap” in Bulgarian, it is often referred to as this because it “traps” you to drink for longer. There’s no chance of leaving once you’re sat in a lush bar. But no, its name comes from its small intertwining streets that are angled so that it feels like you’re trapped in a maze.
During communist times, it was a soulless place used as a carpark. But since Plovdiv was named the European Capital of Culture in 2019, the area really came into its own and rose from the ashes. You’ll find a cool, laid-back area full of life today.
OLD TOWN | 8,000 YEARS OLD
Situated on three hills and boasting lush views over the city, the Old Town gives Plovdiv its reputation as the oldest inhabited city in Europe. The history stretches back 8000 years, and it’s incredible to walk around the cobbled streets and see the evidence of civilisations built on top of each other. The Plovdiv Free Walking Tour points out the highlights for you, so be sure to go on it!
But just a heads up, Plovdiv Old Town is pretty small, so don’t expect Prague standards!
KYUCHUK | SOUTH DISTRICT
TRAKYIA | EAST DISTRICT
As the subheading suggests, Trakyia is east of the city and actually the 3rd largest neighbourhood in Bulgaria. This is super local and full of communist 70s and 80s apartment blocks.
GETTING AROUND PLOVDIV
BY WALKING
It’s incredibly walkable. You can walk from one side of the city centre to the others in 15/20 minutes and you’ll feel orientated within a day of being there.
BY BUS
Many buses link the city centre with the surrounding neighbourhoods if you have an Airbnb out of the centre. Most buses stop at this bus stop.
Every bus in Plovdiv costs 1lv, bargain! All you need to do is jump on this bus, and a person will be selling tickets on the bus (so don’t go to the driver!) Make sure you have change with you.
Tip: Moovit is the best transport app in Bulgaria and will give you the latest schedule. Google Maps doesn’t work so well there.
BY TAXI
The public buses stop running early, around 9 pm – I was so surprised too! So after a few drinks in Kapana, you have two options: to walk home or take a taxi. Many locals opt for taxis at night as they are affordable and run on the meter.
It’s really easy to catch a taxi. Just stand on one of the busy roads in the city like “Tsar Boris III Obedinitel”, and one will pass by. If you’re in a quiet neighbourhood and can’t find one to flag down, there’s an app called Taxi.Me where you can order one.
HOW TO GET TO PLOVDIV
SOFIA TO PLOVDIV BY TRAIN
Bulgarian trains are pretty good, in my opinion, and a train from Sofia to Plovdiv will cost you around 9lv. It’s a 2.5-hour journey, and you’ll pass the Bulgarian countryside.
You can check the train times in advance via the BDZ website. To buy a train ticket, head to the train station 15 minutes before, and you’ll find lots of ticket counters. Unlike in the UK, the ticket is always the same price no matter when you buy it, so don’t worry about buying one in advance.
I love the trains in Bulgaria as some have carriages like Harry Potter and restaurant carts.
SOFIA TO PLOVDIV BY BUS
The bus from Sofia to Plovdiv takes around 2h, shorter than the train and you can buy the tickets here.
FLYING INTO PLOVDIV AiRPORT
Plovdiv Airport is teeny tiny, with only 3 or 4 daily flights.
When landing, you can grab a taxi, which will cost around 35lv to the centre. Or jump on a shuttle bus for 10lv per person. The shuttle waits until everyone has passed through arrivals and then will leave and drop you in the city centre, close to the train st.
Plovdiv on a budget: 8 cool things to do
1. get your bearings with a free walking tour
Alright, alright, an obvious one. But the Plovdiv Free Walking Tour was the first thing I did when I arrived in the city, and it really helped me get my bearings and an overview of what was important to see.
The tour leaves from here every day at 11 AM and 6 PM. It’s tip-based, so give what you can!
2. see a concert in the ancient amphiteatre
3. explore old town and its cats
Wander around Old Town, meet its feline inhabitants and grab a drink at one of the many cobbled street cafes. My favourite is Satori Magic. Cats have become a symbol of the Old Town and are so popular you can find them on magnets, postcards, t-shirts etc, in souvenir shops all over the city. It’s very much Istanbul or Kotor vibes if you’ve been there.
4. GO OUT IN KAPANA | the creative district
As mentioned in the neighbourhood guide, Kapana is really the place to go out. By day, the pedestrianised zone is full of coffee drinkers and people out for lunch; by night, it turns into a place to go out. In my opinion, the best bars are Local Beer Bar, Kotka and Anyway Social.
5. VISIT DZUHMAYA mosque
Located on the corner of the Kapana district, the Dzuhmaya Mosque is definitely the most impressive architectural building in the city for me. As it’s a working mosque, it’s free to visit and open late so you can squeeze it in before heading out for dinner in Kapana.
6. CaTCH the sunset at danov hill
7. people watch at Tsar Simeon park
Tsar Simeon Park was one of my first impressions of the city. If you arrive by train, you’ll pass through it. It’s a park full of life. I’m talking about two grandpas playing chess and retired ladies living their best lives practising a traditional group Bulgarian dance…I promise I’m not even romanticising it; I’ve got videos to prove it.
8. Take a day trip to visit Asenovgrad Fort
Located only 25 minutes and a 1.5lv train journey from the central train station, Asenovgrad is a sweet base for many hiking trails and home to Asenovgrad Fort.
The first 30 minutes of the walk is through the town, but then you reach a paved lane leading up to the Fort. It’s not too steep and will take around 30 minutes to plod your way up there.
FOOD AND DRINK GUIDE TO
PLOVDIV
Where to eat in plovdiv?
- Pavaj ($$) for a local menu in the heart of the Kapana district
- Rahat Tepe ($$) a tad touristy but definitely worth it for the no fuss food and panoramic views
- Supa Bar ($) hearty soup
- Fresh pasta ($$)
- Street Chefs Plovdiv ($$) hamburger and fries
Where to grab a drink in plovdiv?
- Baba Yaga ($) owned by a lovely French guy and perfect international watering spot
- Kotka i Mishka (Cat and Mouse Beer Bar) ($) craft beer and nice vibes
- Bar Petnoto ($$) cosy wine bar with laid back vibes
- Satori Magic located in Old Town
Where to find the best coffee in Plovdiv?
- Dwell Coffee House run by the sweetest family
- The Family Coffee Roasters
