Want a real “off-the-beaten” adventure in Eastern Turkey? Consider jumping on the Güney / Kurtalan Express! In November 2023, I travelled on the Southern Express from Diyarbakir to Ankara, and it was one of my most memorable journeys.
As a slow traveller, I value taking trains over buses and planes, and so I couldn’t resist planning my trip from Tbilisi, Georgia to Istanbul around this train. This post is a short travel guide on the Güney Kurtalan Southern Express including how to book and what to expect from the 24hr train through Eastern Turkey.
What exactly is the Güney / Kurtalan Express?
The Southern Güney – Kurtalan Express is a slow train that operates between Ankara, Diyarbakir and Kurtalan (Turkey’s most Eastern railway station) in Turkey.
From Ankara, it leaves at 10.55 on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. And from Kurtalan Station, 08.00 on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Oh, and two days per week, it departs Ankara for Tatvan on Lake Van.
You can find the Güney – Kurtalan Express timetable here.
Its sister train, the Dogu Express, along the northeastern part of Turkey from Kars to Ankara, tends to be more popular and books out far in advance. However, the Southern Güney – Kurtalan Express is less well-known and therefore normally has some sleeper tickets available.
How to book the Southern Güney - Kurtalan Express?
So you’ve decided you want to go; now time to book.
1. In advance via the TCDD website.
2. At the train station: as the Southern Guney Express isn’t as busy as the Dogu Express, you’ll likely be able to book at the train station for a few days or even on the day. You can check the availability of the train via the TCDD website.
3. Via a ticket agency. Although I didn’t use a travel agency, if you’re the kinda person that needs the surety that you’ll be able to get a ticket, try contacting a Turkish travel agency like Amber Travel.
I had trouble booking the train in advance with my British card but could keep checking the availability (via the TCDD website) of the day I wanted to travel. That way, when I went to the train station in Diyarbakir, I knew they had availability.
The train consists of four normal-seat carriages (Pulman), one sleeping couchette (kuset), one bed carriage (yatakali) and a dining cart.
For a sleeping couchette on the Güney – Kurtalan train, I paid 675 TL from Diyarbakir to Ankara – at the time of travelling in Nov 2022, this was €22. Just a heads up, online booking does not allow mixed male/female within a single couchette. If you are a couple and want to book the same couchette, you must book in person at the station.
A Traveller's Experience on the Güney - Kurtalan Express
The train was 1 hour late getting into Diyarbakir, which seemed very normal given everyone else’s chillness about it. The train stops for a good 10 minutes, so there is no need to rush to get on.
I opted for the 4-person couchette (kuset) and was lucky enough to share it with only one other woman who was so sweet. I bought lots of fruit and food for the train, but when I tried to take food from my bag, she ushered me to eat hers. We had dinner and breakfast together, and I didn’t even touch any food I had brought. I was stuffed by the time I reached Ankara!
Although we didn’t speak the same language, she continuously spoke to me as we did, and somehow I understood her (well, I think). I absolutely loved my time sitting, eating, and reading with her. It sticks in my mind as a core memory.
After being on the train for a few hours, the conductor came around to check our tickets and handed us blankets and sheets. He didn’t speak English either, but it was all fine.
The compartment was so warm and toasty as it had heating. I’d say maybe, at times, it was too hot that we had to open a window!
Don't even get me started on the dining cart!
The next day, after sharing breakfast with the lovely lady, I went into the dining cart to do some work. There, I met the conductor again, and he told me we were around 4 hours delayed. He seemed very chill about it, so I think it’s a regular occurrence. Throughout the night I felt the train stop at random times. I later found it is because the freight and high-speed train take priority over the Güney – Kurtalan Express, so just a heads up if you have plans and expectations to arrive in Ankara on time…
The dining cart was adorable. It reminded me of a Wes Anderson film. The food served there was basic, but it was a good place to sit and chill with tea. And not to mention the view from the big windows.
Final Words
I’m not one to use “off-the-beaten” track lightly, but taking the Güney – Kurtalan Southern Express train through Eastern Turkey to Ankara is undoubtedly a unique and off-the-beaten track experience. I saw no other travellers on my journey, interacted with locals and saw a Turkey I would’ve never experienced if I had taken the 1hr plane or night bus.
If you’re planning a trip to Turkey, don’t hesitate to book the travel on the Guney – Kurtalan Express. If you need to be convinced more, check out this. As always I’m here if you have any other questions.
