Are you looking for inspiration for your future trip to South India? This one-month South India itinerary is designed with the independent traveller in mind. If you’re up for embracing India’s local trains and buses, supporting local restaurants, and organising your own budget-friendly day trips, keep reading!
I didn't like India the first time.
To provide a bit of context, I travelled to India from the UK in 2015. As a wide-eyed but naive 19-year-old fascinated by South Asian religion, I was expecting so much from India.
First, landing in Delhi wasn’t one of my best decisions. I got scammed big time, and this whole experience soured the trip. And, honestly, after a tough six weeks of travelling through North India, I left feeling deflated and relieved to be going home.
In the years that followed, whenever I was asked, “What country would you never go back to?” I would always say India.
India, take two
But in January 2024, I decided to give India another chance and flew to Goa to start a six-week trip that completely altered my opinion of the country. Now, I can safely say that India is one of my favourite countries in the world: the people, the food, the landscapes, the diverse culture, the atmosphere, just everything.
A lot of time has gone into compiling this one-month South India itinerary in the hope that you’ll get to experience the same incredible India that I have. If this is your first time visiting India, I’d 1000% recommend going South first. Avoid Delhi at all costs!
Get comfy because this is going to be a long one! Let’s start with the practicalities.
Best time to visit south India?
The best time to visit South India is, without a doubt, November to March. There’s little rain, and the temperature is comfortable, around 20 – 30°c.
India visa?
There are all sorts of tourist-visas for India you can get. If I were you, I’d opt for the one-year multiple-entry e-visa (ETA) like I did for USD 50. Even if you’re only intending to stay a month, you never know if you’ll want to extend your trip. If you only go for the 30-day e-visa, it’s not possible to extend once you’re in the country.
You can apply on this website. My visa was granted in about 3 days.
How to prepare your trip for South India?
- Download the app Where My Train? (for short domestic train times), IRCTC (for booking overnight buses), and Redbus (for bus bookings).
- Accept that everything is on India time. Therefore, trains will likely be delayed.
- Most guesthouses and hostels can be reserved on Booking or Hostelworld.
- Try not to plan too much in advance; you don’t know who you’re gonna meet or what place you connect with, so it’s good to stay open to plans changing.
One-Month South India itinerary
I chose to fly into Goa airport and work my way south from there. Of course, you can take the same route in reverse if you fly into Thiruvananthapuram International Airport.
This is my suggested one-month South India itinerary route; use it however you want!
- Palolem, South Goa (2 days)
- Agonda, South Goa (2 days)
- Gokarna, Karnataka (4 days)
- Hampi, Karnataka (4 days)
- Mysore, Karnataka (2 days)
- Coonoor, Tamil Nadu (3 days)
- Fort Kochi, Kerala (3 days)
- Munnar, Kerala (3 days)
- Alleppey, Kerala (1 day)
- Munroe Island, Kerala (2 days)
- Varkala, Kerala (4 days)
Skip to...
Day 1 + 2: Palolem, Goa
Welcome to Goa, the state with the best beaches in India. You land at Goa airport, and then what? Do you head North or South? This a contentious issue. If you’re into partying, head North to party-central Agonda or side-trance-loving Arambol.
But if you’re a bit like me, and enjoy a nice cold beer on a beautiful, stretched-out beach, head South to Palolem and Agonda.
Goa airport to Palolem?
The fastest way to get from Goa airport to Palolem is by taxi. When you land, go to the GoaMiles taxi stand, and they’ll help you download the app to get the best price. Pay no more than INR 1800.
The cheapest way to get from Goa airport to Palolem is by public bus, but it’s not direct, and you’ll have to switch buses in Margao. Head to the main road outside the airport, and you’ll see buses passing regularly and heading south. Don’t be afraid to put your hand out to wave one down and ask if it’s heading to Margao (it probably is). The journey from the airport to Margao Bus Stand takes around 40 minutes. From there, change buses to Palolem.
The journey from Margao to Palolem takes around 1 hour. In total, I paid INR 85. So from Goa airport to Palolem by bus, it should take you approx. 2hrs.
Palolem is the perfect place to unwind and relax after a long travel journey. Imagine long stretches of beaches, palm trees, cows walking along the beach, curry dinners, affordable cold beer, and social hostels to meet like-minded travellers. Sounds like the dream, right?
While Palolem is bloody gorgeous, it’s important to point out that perhaps a decade ago, it really would have been an “off-the-beaten” track destination. But today, it’s much more known, and you’ll find a mix of long-term backpackers and short two-week tourists chasing the winter sun. It’s more developed than the guides let on.
That being said, it’s still my favourite beach spot in India (alongside Gokarna in Karnataka). So get excited because I will help you get the most out of it.
Where to stay in palolem?
I stayed in Rainbow Lining Hostel, which I loved: super social, great location, like-minded travellers. I’ve heard Bunk and Brew is also cool and social, along with the Lost Hostel (which is a chain, yes but fun and all about the party).
Once you’ve checked in, I recommend taking it easy and visiting Palolem or Patnem beach (which is a lot more chill). For your first night, you have to go for a traditional Goan fish thali at Rama’s homemade cooked fish rice.
Best beaches near Palolem
Many travellers make the mistake of sticking to Palolem Beach when visiting; there are so many beautiful beaches to explore. I’d suggest renting a scooter for INR 350-400 (€3.50 – €4) per day.
In the morning, drive to Galgibaga Beach and Talpona Beach. For lunch, go to the bougie and vegan Zest Cafe Talpona or, if you want local and fish, Santosh Shack. Finish your beach day watching the sunset at Patnem Beach.
For dinner, I’d recommend a local no-fuss dinner at Rian Restaurant. Everything I ate on their menu was delicious, so you can’t go wrong. If you’ve got some energy for a later night, Rian Restaurant is literally at the beach, where there are lots of beach bars open until 1 a.m.
Day 3 + 4: Agonda, Goa
20 minutes’ drive from Palolem, you’ll find Agonda, a little yoga-centric beach village. While it has become more popular in recent years, it’s still a gem to spend a few days downtime.
You’ll find all kinds of people there: yogis doing their 200-hr training, retired hippies, and backpackers. It’s essentially one sandy track road with cute beach huts for rent, affordable vegetarian cafes, and a wild, vast beach. Thankfully, the commercialisation that is happening in Palolem hasn’t reached Agonda yet.
Of course, if you’d rather stay in Palolem for more days, you can easily scooter over to Agonda for a few hours. But I’d recommend staying in Agonda and sinking deep into the beach life. It’s also a perfect base to explore some beautiful beaches. My favourites are Kakolem Beach and Cola Beach (but the part of the beach away from the crowds).
For food, go to Mandala Cafe for breakfast and Chennai Yummy Kitchen for lunch or dinner.
Day 5 - 8: Gokarna, Karnataka
Time to head south down the coast to Gokarna: the town I found it almost impossible to leave.
Gokarna, much before the flow of tourists, for centuries, has been a place of pilgrimage. In Sanskrit, the word Gokarna means cow’s ear. In one version in Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva returned to earth from the underworld through the ear of a cow.
Gokarna has a completely different culture than Goa, definitely less party heavy. And just like Palolem – the secret is out. It’s definitely not North Goa, but it’s not off-the-beaten track, either. If you can, try to avoid coming to Gokarna on weekends. It’s popular with holiday-making Indians, and the beaches are very busy
Train from Palolem to Gokarna
The best way to travel from South Goa to Gokarna is by train. Palolem has a local train station called Canacona and Gokarna’s nearest train is Gokarna Road. There are a few trains per day, and it takes only 1 hour! To check train times, download the app Where’s My Train? For small local trains in India, you don’t need to book in advance; just go to the ticket counter 10 minutes before the train.
Once you arrive at Gokarna station, you can get a tuk-tuk to your accommodation. Pay no more than INR 200-300 (€3) from the train station to Gokarna town.
Where to stay in Gokarna?
Gokarna is split into three sections: the centre of Gokarna Town, along Gokarna beach, and Om Beach.
The centre of Gokarna is not really somewhere you’d want to be staying. It’s a cool place to visit for a few hours, but then you’ll want to leave because of the crowds.
I stayed along Gokarna beach, and there’s only one place you should stay if you’re a backpacker and want to meet like-minded people: Revibe Hostel. It’s at the far end of Gokarna Beach, in a local part of Gokarna where you are surrounded by farm fields.
The other option is at Om Beach. On the further side of the beach, there are cool cheap bungalows to rent at Jungle Cafe Resort.
What to do in Gokarna?
Gokarna is all about the chill life, and so much of the time, you’ll want to laze at the beach, make new friends at the hostel, and enjoy the delicious fresh food.
Save for later: A Guide to Gokarna, Karnataka’s Best Beach Town
Day 9 - 12: Hampi, Karnataka
Next up on this one-month South India itinerary: Hampi.
Hampi surprised me the most. When researching India for my trip, Hampi wasn’t even on my radar, but when I arrived in Goa, every other traveller I met told me about this flintstone / temple town in the middle of Karnataka that I HAD to visit.
Overnight bus from Gokarna to Hampi
The best way to travel from Gokarna to Hampi and avoid a whole day fo travel is by overnight bus. It takes around 6hrs, and you can book your bus on Busbud.
You’ll arrive in Hospet (the closest transport hub to Hampi) in the early morning and you need to be prepared as some of the tuk-tuk drivers are like coyotes. I have written a whole post dedicated to getting from Hospet to Hampi.
Read later: How to Get from Hospet to Hampi (2024)
When I arrived in Hampi in the early hours of the morning on a train from Mysore and drove in a tuk-tuk to my accommodation, I felt an instant sense of ease and knew it was my kind of place.
Hampi is world famous for its ancient ruins and temples, but it’s also way more than that. It’s an outdoor playground with so many boulders to climb, river spots to swim in, and sunrise points to discover.
Read later: 7 Wonderful Things to Do in Hampi
Day 13 - 15: Mysore, Karnataka
Next up on this one-month South India itinerary: the royal city of Mysore.
to head into the city. in this 1-month India Mysore is the less intimidating Indian city: a mecca for Ashtanga yogis.
Still, I’m not a huge fan of busy Asian cities, so two days was plenty for me.
Overnight train from hospete to mysore
The best way to reach Mysore is via train. There’s a direct overnight train that goes from Hospet to Mysore via Bangalore that you need to book in advance via the Ixigo app.
I’m not one for touristy spots, but Mysore Palace is something you can’t miss. Fun fact: it’s the second most visited monument in the country after the Taj Mahal. It’s only INR 100 (€1) to enter, and every Sunday at 7 p.m., you can enter the palace grounds for free for the weekly light show and music.
In addition to the palace, I recommend visiting Devaraja Market in the historical centre of Mysore, where spices and flowers are sold. Top tip: Wear headphones if you want to walk around without being hassled or approached by market sellers.
It’s also worth taking a visit to the yoga district of Mysore called Gokulam, the birth place of Ashtanga Yoga. Around the yoga schools, there are lots of affordable and friendly restaurants and cafes. My favourites were Old Green House Cafe and Govinda’s Yoga Cafe. And for the best flat white coffee ever: Minimal Coffee Roasters.
This area is also a great place to stay. I recommend Funky Buddha Hostel and Palace Hostel by Borrbo.
Day 15 - 17: Coonoor, Tamil Nadu
Further south we go! Time to head up into the hills, to the hill station town of Coonoor. Nestled in the Nilgiri Hills in Tamil Nadu, Coonoor is what I expected Munnar to be – charming, tranquil, and real.
Bus from Mysore to Coonoor
Wake up as early as possible and travel from Mysore or Bangalore to Coonoor by bus. There are regular buses heading from Mysore to Ooty. The journey is around 5.5 hours, depending on traffic.
From Ooty, you can catch the public bus to Coonoor for INR 20 (€2) or travel on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway (although I’ve heard that this part of the journey from Ooty to Coonoor isn’t as spectacular as Coonoor to Mettupalayam).
What to do in Conoor?
Stay at least two nights in Coonoor at The Birdhouse Hostel. Set up in 2019 by a couple and run mostly by volunteers who bring so much fresh energy to the place, it the kind of hostel that really feels like a home away from home.
Aside from its tea plantations and factories, the best thing about Coonoor is that you can hike anywhere without a guide. Hike up to Tiger Hill for sunrise and to Dolphin Nose Point for tea field views and bison spotting.
Read later: 7 Wonderful Things to Do in Coonoor
Day 18 - 20: Fort Kochi, Kerala
A big travel day ahead to Fort Kochi in the last (but my favourite state) on this one-month South India itinerary.
Bus and train from Coonoor to Fort Kochi
To get from Coonoor to Kochi by public transport, you’ll need to take a bus to Coimbatore and from there, a train to Kochi. Leave as early as possible to ensure you’re not arriving too late to Cochi!
First, head to Coonoor Bus Stand and ask anyone you see for the bus to Coimbatore. The journey takes around 2.5 hours and costs INR 57 (€0.57).
Once you reach Coimbatore Junction, you’ll need to catch a short tuk-tuk from the bus station to the Coimbatore Junction (the main railway station).
There are regular trains from Coimbatore to Ernakulam Jn (the main train station in Kochi), so you’ll just need to head to the ticket desk and ask for the next train to Kochi.
In January 2024, I paid INR 75 (€0.75) for a seat in a women-only general carriage. I remember the 4-hour journey very well; I met some women my age travelling to their university to sit some important exams. They offered to share their homemade lunch with me; so lovely!
Welcome to Kerala
Just to note, I recently published a detailed two-week Kerala itinerary. It contains much more detail than what I’ll go into below, so please give it a read afterwards.
Read later: The Ultimate Two Weeks in Kerala, India
Fort Kochi is the perfect place to start in Kerala. It’s steeped in history. Originally a fishing village, it developed into a significant trading port under various colonial powers, first the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and, of course, the British.
Stay in Fort Kochi for at least two nights. For an authentic breakfast, go to Anatha Bhavan Inn. For lunch or dinner, go to Mary’s Kitchen for the best Keralan fish curry or Coriander Veg and Vegan.
what to do in fort kochi?
Without a doubt, you can’t miss Kochi’s famous Kathakali show at the Kerala Kathakali Centre. It’s INR 500 (€5) per ticket. If you’re not familiar with Kathakali, it’s a traditional form of Indian dance, combined with devotion, music, dance, drama and make-up, retelling great stories of the past. The show officially starts at 6 pm, but be sure to go a little earlier to see the performers apply their make-up.
If you want to learn a little about Kochi’s history, I’d recommend Kochi Stories by Ajita. It’s run by a lady who was born and grew up in Fort Kochi, and her family were directly involved in rejuvenation projects when the British left.
For an authentic cooking class, opt for Maria’s South India Cooking Class; Maria hosts a cooking class at her home on Burger Street. Pop her a Whatsapp message to reserve in advance.
Day 21 - 23: Munnar
Wake up early. It’s time to head to India’s most famous hill station, Munnar. The road is windy and long, but it’s worth it.
I was weighing up whether to add Munnar to this one-month South India itinerary, but I came to the conclusion that it’s great if you set your expectations. If you’re expecting an untouched paradise of lush tea fields and no other traveller in sight, this isn’t your place. Munnar has increased in popularity over the years, and with popularity comes commercialisation.
Having said that, it is still incredibly beautiful, and I’ll never forget the lush image of the sun hitting the tea plantations.
Bus from Fort Kochi to Munnar
I have a written a short comprehsive guide on how to reach Munnar without taking a private taxi. Read later: How to Get to Munnar from Kochi by Public Bus
What to do in Munnar?
The best thing to do in Munnar is explore its nature and hike! But one frustrating things is that you can’t hike independently without a guide; you must book a tour. Even if it says on All Trails that there are plenty of hikes, I’d advise not to. I saw a few people hiking independently and being told off by local guides.
I can recommend the full-day Lakshmi Hills with Munnar Great Think Adventures. For INR 1400 (€14), the tour includes a hostel pick-up, a traditional breakfast on the peak, a wonderful and informative guide, and a vegetarian thali at the end of the hike. Our guide, Philip, was so informative. We often stopped where he explained the different flora and fauna, animal markings, and how the tea is processed. It was a great way to spend my 28th birthday.
Day 24: Alleppey, Kerala
A short stop in Alleppey, the backwaters of Kerala, is a must on this one-month South India itinerary. But why only for a day? Because in my opinion, the next stop on this itinerary, Munroe Island, is even better and shows the real backwaters life, without the tourists!
munnar to Kottayam to Alleppey
Start early and take the KSRTC public bus from Munnar bus stand to Kottayam. The buses are regular, should take around 4.5 hours, and cost approximately. INR 150-200 (€1.50-2).
Once you reach Kottayam, you’ll be dropped off at the Kottayam bus station. From there, you can walk 20 minutes or take a short tuk-tuk to the Kodimatha Boat Jetty to catch the government backwaters boat to Alleppey, also known as Alappuzha.
The Kottayam – Alleppey Government boat is the perfect way to see the backwaters without having to pay for an overpriced tour. You don’t need to book in advance, just turn up to the jetty 20-30 minutes before the departure time.
The boat times are as follows:
Kottayam to Alappuzha (Alleppey) 🛥️ 6:15 AM 11:30 AM 1:00 PM 3:30 PM 5:15 PM
Alappuzha (Alleppey) to Kottayam 🛥️ 7:30 AM 9:30 AM 11:30 AM 2:30PM 5:15PM
If you’re coming from Munnar, you’ll likely catch the 3 pm ferry and arrive in Alleppey around 6 pm, and then will just want to head to your accommodation and grab some dinner.
Where to stay in Alleppey?
If you want to be by the beach, stay at Beach Campers ($), Funky Art Beach Hostel ($) or for a bit more luxury, Summer Beach House. My friends also stayed at Dutch Square Hostel and really liked it.
Day 25 + 26: Munroe Island
Munroe Island is a real hidden gem of Kerala, where I felt most relaxed. It’sIt’sestination easily bypassed by travellers intent on the backwaters of Alleppey or the sandy beaches of Varkala. You can’t skip it – I promise you!
Train from Alleppey to Munroe Island
Every day (except Sunday), the Alappuzha–Kollam Express stops in Munroe Island. You can double-check train times through this app. For short trains in Kerala, you don’t need to book in advance and can buy a ticket from the ticket counter at the station.
One of the best things to do in Munroe Island is cycle a 5km loop around the island (yep, it’s that small!) and just observe local life.
In the evening, rent a kayak from ASR boating and go for a sunset kayak through the mangroves. On your way home, remember to stop by the toddy shop to try Keralans’ authentic homebrewed alcoholic beverage, Toddy.
I loved Munroe Island so much that I dedicated an entire article to it, so read this later: a backpackers guide to Munroe Island.
Day 27 - 30: Varkala
Our final stop on this one-month South India itinerary is Varkala; ending your trip where you started: the beach. Take this time at this yogi-centric beach town to wind down and reflect on the past month.
Train from Munroe Island to Varkala
The trains from Munroe Island are limited to Varkala, so its worth waking up early, and catching the 7.53 am from Munroturuttu Station to Varkala. If you’re not an early bird, you can catch a later train to Kollam at 9.13 am or 2.45 pm and from there jump on a public bus to Varkala, or a taxi if if your budget allows. You can check the train times on this app: Where’s My Train? As I mentioned, you can turn up at the station and buy a ticket at the counter; no need to reserve in advance.
What to do in Varkala?
In Varkala, the best hostels are Hostel Exp and the Barefoot Varkala. Both are incredibly social and full of nice travellers looking for a good time (but not too party party!)
Spend slow mornings at the beach (my favourite is Thiruvambadi Beach (also known more locally as Black Sand Beach); it’s a lot quieter than the one near the Cliff.
If you’re a yogi or even fancy trying your hand at yoga, there are tons of drop-in yoga classes you can take in Varkala. Most 1.5-hour drop-in classes cost around INR 400 – 500 (€4-5). I’d recommend Lumuma and Devvrat Yoga Sangha.
One-Month South India Itinerary: That's a wrap.
In this one-month South India itinerary, we’ve travelled from the most beautiful beaches in Goa and the cultural and historical hubs of Karnataka to the friendliest state of all, Kerala.
Whether you’re leaving India from Thiruvananthapuram International Airport or continuing your trip around the rest of India, I hope you found this itinerary super valuable for figuring out how to see and experience the most out of the incredible country.
Planning a trip to India can be intimidating so as always, I’m here if you want to reach out and ask any questions!
