Looking to do a silent retreat in Thailand but want to know more information? My short travel guide on Wat Pa Tam Wua Monastery in Mae Hong Son will give you the confidence to visit the Buddhist monastery yourself.
Wat Pa Tam Wua Monastery in Mae Hong Song is the best place to try a silent retreat and escape the chaos of life.
Without going into too much detail, what led me to the monastery was weeks of stress leading to eventual burnout and a broken laptop. Back in January ’23, we’d been in Pai for a month, and during that time, I’d sat in a few circles where Wat Pa Tam Wua Monastery had come into conversations. The monastery is located 2 hours north of the hippy backpacker town of Pai, and so many people go there for Vipassana.
I very much pushed the idea of going aside until the day of the broken laptop. I was experiencing a lot of stress and suffering from the ‘help; my life is over’ mentality. I knew I needed a break from outside influence and people needing me, so I googled Wat Pa Tam Forest Monastery, cancelled all my work commitments that week, and left the next day.
How to get to Wat Pa Tam Wua Monestery from pai?
This needs to be clarified when coming from Pai. People assume you must book a bus with Prempracha Transports in advance and panic when they get to the bus station and it’s sold out (as there aren’t many seats).
But don’t worry. To reach Wat Pa Tam Monestery, it’s better to catch the yellow taxi that leaves twice daily from the intersection next to Pai bus station at 7am and 11am. You can’t book this advance so I definitely recommend getting there 20/30 minutes before, as it can fill up quickly.
I opted for the 7am bus just in case it filled up, and I had the option to catch the 11am one. I knew I’d made the right choice to catch the early one when I saw the most beautiful sunrise as the truck climbed up the windy roads of Mae Hong Song.
The 2-hour bumpy, yellow taxi journey from Pai to the monastery costs THB 12O one way.
And just a heads up, be prepared to be surrounded by sacks of vegetables and parcels as the driver has a cheeky side job dropping off fresh produce to different businesses on the way to the monestary.
how about from Chiang Mai?
What to expect when you arrive at Wa Pa Tam WUA Monastery?
Okay, so they don’t accept any reservations but prefer you to rock up. They’ll always make space for you no matter what. Once you hop off the yellow taxi, the volunteers will check you in, and you must write down how many days you intend to stay. This can be changed later if you fancy staying longer. You can stay up to 30 days, but most opt for about a week.
Now, you can decide if you want to be silent and pick up a badge that says ‘Silent and Happy” to let everyone know you are deciding on Vipassana.
After that, one of the volunteers at the monastery will take you to the clothes room. Here, there are hundreds of white tops and trousers that you’ll wear for the remainder of the time at the monastery. I found these clothes so comfy.
Sleeping arrangements at Wat Pa Tam WUa Monastery
If you’re jammy and arrive at the right time or stay longer than a few days, you’ll get a kufi (a cute little hut).
Or be put into the dormitories that are pretty nice and cool in the hot weather. Most who opt for the monastery experience tend to be respectful. No one’s making loud noise or coming in drunk at 2 am like a typical hostel experience. And while no one was staying in these when I was there, there are backup tents if they run out of beds in the dorms.
But no matter where you sleep, the beds are stiff and wooden with no mattress. You’ll get bruises on your hips, but it’s all part of the fun & after a few days, you’ll get used to it.
Wat Pa Tam Wua Monestary Daily Schedule
All these activities are mandatory, and you’re expected to be there 5 minutes before. A monk will bang on a gong to signal the start of each activity. Wherever you are in the monastery, you’ll be able to hear it and should make a move on so you’re not late!
5 am – meditation in your room.
6.30 am – rice offering to the monks.
7 am – breakfast
8 am – morning meditation (this includes a 1-hour super-slow meditative walk around the monastery grounds led by a monk, followed by 30 minutes of sitting-down meditation).
– free time –
10.30 am – a food offering to the monks.
11 am – lunch time and final meal of the day.
12.50 am – afternoon dharma lessons and meditation (this includes sitting-down meditation practising the technique the monk teaches you, 1hr walking meditation, 30 30-minute lying down meditation, and optional question time with the Monk. This is an opportunity to ask the monk any questions on your mind).
– free time –
4 pm – 1 hour cleaning and helping out around the monastery. Tasks include sweeping leaves, cleaning the kitchen, and general tidying.
– free time –
6 pm – evening chanting, meditation and a talk by the head monk.
8 pm – free time to read, socialise if you’re speaking and have a hot choccy.
What food is available at Wat Pa Tam Wua Monestary?
As you can see by the schedule, there are only two meals a day: breakfast at 7 am and lunch at 11 am. When I first saw the schedule, I was worried about having no food after 11 am. But if you’re in silence, you’ll be surprised you’re not too hungry in the evenings as you burn fewer calories.
All meals are vegan and buffet-like, so you can put as much as you want into your bowl. There is always rice and then three additional things to put with it.
There is strictly no meat allowed on site, so don’t be a dick and bring any as its disrespectful.
There are two sections of the dining hall: silent and speaking. As I chose to be silent, I spent all my time on the silent side. Eating in silence is lovely as you appreciate and feel grateful for every bite.
Oh, and for all you coffee addict out there, there’s coffee. Albeit it’s instant but there is some.
cherish your free time at the monestary
The daily activities structure your day at the monastery and teach you much about Buddhist teachings and meditation. But meal times, reading, journaling, and walking around the monastery during free time gave me the biggest revelations.
At Wat Pa Tam Forest Monastery, it’s important to reflect throughout your day and write down these thoughts in a journal. After I left the monastery and returned to Pai, I read through my journal and was so surprised to read some things I’d forgotten about. You’ll capture incredible revelations and moments of clarity by writing down your thoughts as they come to you.
What to pack for wat pa tam Wua monestary?
Warm clothing: The monastery is in the mountains, so it can get pretty cold, especially in the early morning when you wake up at 5 am! Oh, and the evenings during chanting. I brought a jumper and a puffer jacket with me & I felt so grateful for it. But rest assured, if you have nothing warm packed, the monastery has so many blankets you can use to make a handmade poncho. Stylish right?
Snacks: As I mentioned, the last meal is at 11 am. Surprisingly, you won’t be as hungry in the evenings as you think if you’re silent; you won’t burn as many calories from talking. But bring some nuts and oranges, just in case – you can keep these in your room. We don’t want your belly rumbling during evening chanting, do we?
Journal: To capture your experience and help get your thoughts and feelings out.
Books: If you don’t have any packed, don’t worry; the dining hall has a library full of books that people leave behind for others to read.
My Personal Experience at Wat Pam Tam Wua Monestary
Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery was a life-changing experience, and it was bittersweet to leave it after a week of silence and meditation.
Before going, I felt so bogged down by stress and people’s expectations of me. The week allowed me to empty my mind, destress, and focus only on being present and in the moment.
After a few days of silence, I could meditate without thoughts fogging my mind. Although sitting for 45 minutes in the dharma hall was uncomfortable, it felt empowering to be seated next to 40 other people trying to search for answers to their own lives, worries, and desires.
If you’d told the 13-year-old me that she’d be committing to a week of silence and meditation, she’d have laughed in your face. But I’ve come so far from that teenager; the silence was precisely what a 27-year-old burned-out woman needed.
I left the monastery with a clearer mind, an open heart and a better understanding of who I am and want to be. I now know how to manage stress better when it comes (because, oh boy, I’m sure it will).
You don’t have to be religious or spiritual to attend a Buddhist retreat—I’m certainly not. It’s for anyone with an open mind and willingness to be vulnerable with their thoughts.
As always, I’m here if you need any advice or further information on my experience at Wat Pa Tam Wua Monastery. If I can do it, so can you!
2 thoughts on “Wat Pa Tam Wua: Buddhist Monastery Guide”
Hi Jules,
This is great, thanks for sharing!
Can you get a similar yellow taxi back to Pai once you’re done or is there a better way?
Thanks,
Eoin
Hey Eoin!
Yes, there are two yellow trucks that arrive every day to the monestary to drop and pick people up. If you want to head back to Pai, the truck will arrive early morning around 8am I think (you don’t need to book in advance, just double check exactly what time with the reception staff). The truck heading to Mae Hong Son arrives in the early afternoon.
Hope that helps!