Planning a few days in the tranquil hill station of Coonoor, Tamil Nadu? This short travel guide on 7 wonderful things to do in Coonoor – plus advice on where to stay and where to eat – will have you covered.
Coonoor was an unexpected stop on my journey through India, but one that I found almost impossible to leave. I was recommended it by a fellow traveller I’d met in Kerala, and he convinced me that it was worth the diversion on my way to Mysore.
Nestled in the Nilgiri Hills in Tamil Nadu, Coonoor is what I expected Munnar to be – charming, tranquil, and real. Often sidelined by its neighbour and described in travel guides as “the gateway to Ooty”, Coonoor is worth more than that, and I’m going to show you.
A Brief history of Coonoor
Originally inhabited by indigenous tribes of the Nilgiris, it was first mentioned as a European settlement in 1834. When it came under British influence in the 19th century, tea plantations were established, and later (in 1908), the Nilgiri Mountain Railway was constructed, boosting the town’s popularity. Alongside its neighbour Ooty, Coonoor became a popular holiday destination for the British escaping the coast’s heat.
But hey, I’m no historian so I’ll point you in the right direction of a website that gives much more of a detailed history than I ever could.
How to Get to Coonoor
Aside from the famous toy railway station, Coonoor doesn’t have a railway station. The closest international airport is Coimbatore, and the closest well-connected train station is Mettupalayam.
You can take the train to Mettupalayam Station and then jump on the iconic Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Coonoor. But be aware that tickets must be booked in advance using the Ixigo app or Make My Trip.
Or alternatively, if you’re not too bothered about the train, catch the bus from Coimbatore. You’ll need to go to the Mettupalayam Bus Stand, and from there, there are regular buses to Coonoor or Ooty. In Jan 2024, I paid 57 INR for the bus from Coimbatore to Coonoor, and the journey took 2.5 hours.
To travel from Mysore or Bangalore to Coonoor, regular buses are heading to Ooty. It takes around 5.5 hours, depending on traffic. From Ooty, you can catch the public bus to Coonoor for 20 INR or travel on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway (although I’ve heard that this part of the journey from Ooty to Coonoor isn’t as spectacular as Coonoor to Mettupalayam). To book any buses in advance in India, use the Redbus App.
Getting around Coonoor
If you arrive to Coonoor by bus, you’ll likely be dropped off at the Coonoor bus stand downtown. From here, it’s simple to catch a tuk-tuk to your accommodation. As a base price, pay no more than 100-120 rupees for a tuk-tuk ride.
The town is split into:
◊ Lower Coonoor: this is where the bus stands are, and it’s a lot more noisy and chaotic.
◊ Upper Coonoor: the area the locals call “Bedford”. It has its own high street of shops and tends to be where most accommodation and best restaurants are. I spent most of my time here.
But overall, Coonoor isn’t so big, so walking between lower and upper part Coonoor should take you no more than 45 minutes to 1hr. But just a heads up, it’s very hilly, so bring your strong legs!
If you don’t fancy walking the hills, you’ll find tuk-tuks driving past often, and the local buses are excellent.
Where to Stay in Coonoor?
In my opinion, a hostel is really what makes a place, and Coonoor is home to one of the warmest and most hospitable hostels, The Birdhouse Hostel. As a backpacker, this is the only place you should stay.
Set up in 2019 by a couple and run mostly by volunteers who bring so much fresh energy to the place, the Birdhouse Hostel Coonoor really feels like a home away from home. While they have mostly dorms (950 INR per night), if you’re looking for something more private, one private room is available (2700 INR per night).
Aside from the Birdhouse Hostel, a friend who stayed in Coonoor recommended Camellia Heights, which is also located in Upper Coonoor (where you’ll want to be).
7 wonderful things to do in Coonoor
1. Hike up to Tiger Hill
The best thing about Coonoor is that you can walk and hike independently without a guide (unlike the famous hill station, Munnar).
Tiger Hill is called “the sunset point” in Coonoor, and the best time to start the Tiger Hill loop is during golden hour. The views of the tea fields are incredible. You can do a short 45-minute loop around Tan Tea Factory, past Tiger Hill Cemetery and then Glysdale Tea Factory back to the main road. Turning left takes you up towards Bedford Main Rd, and right takes you back to Birdhouse Hostel.
If you’re interested in history, don’t miss Tiger Hill Cemetery, which dates back to colonial times. Although the front gates are locked, we (and most people) entered through the back by climbing over the wall.
2. Hike to Dolphin Nose Point
10kms from Coonoor you’ll find Dolphin Nose Point. For me, it was about the journey there, not the destination itself. Ok, sounds maybe a bit cheesy, but I didn’t think Dolphin Nose Point was particularly spectacular but it was more of the journey there.
It’s not a hike through lush forest but along a quiet tarmac road called Dolphin Nose Rd. You’ll see some cars pass while you’re walking, but it’s genuinely fine. As you walk, you’ll have lush tea fields on either side of you, pass through small villages, temples, and many monkeys.
I stopped for tea at Glendale Tea Factory, which cost me 20 INR. The ladies working there were so sweet.
If you don’t fancy the walk back, you can catch the local bus, which is an experience in itself. Once I reached Dolphin Nose Point, there was too much fog to see anything, so I decided against paying the 40 INR entrance to the viewpoint. I asked a stall owner when the next bus was, and he told me in 10 minutes, but I had to walk back up the hill. I didn’t fancy waiting for another 1hr, so boy, did I run! And I made it to the top of the junction, huffing and puffing as the bus came around the corner.
Keep an eye out for a bison: There are many bison in the area, so if you’re lucky, you’ll spot one en route – my friends did!
3. Visit Highfield Tea Factory
I really enjoyed the short 10-15 minute tour and tipped 50 INR to the young trainee who guided me. She also offered to show me the chocolate factory and oil extraction on site, but I was rushed for time. But if that’s something you’re interested in, then the option is there!
Next to the tea factory, Cherrie Berry serves organic and healthy food. I had my first RAW salad after weeks of cooked veggies (India doesn’t do raw food, I swear), and it was heavenly. It’s on the pricey side, but worth it if you’re feeling a bit boogie.
4. Stuff your face at Moody's
Moody’s in an institution! Its original shop is based in Ooty, but the Coonoor branch has everything, too. I didn’t even know India could do chocolate so well. This bakery/ chocolate shop has everything. I have such a sweet tooth, and I was here DAILY during my time in Coonoor. Their hot chocolate is also to die for.
5. Hike to Droog Fort and Pakkasuran Peak
Droog Fort, also known as Bakasura Malai Fort, dates back to the 18th century and was an earlier outpost used by Tipu Sultan to keep an eye on neighbouring kingdoms. While online, you can see photos of its watch tower and walls, in reality, there are not really any remnants of it; some say it has been bought by someone and is private property now. But anyhow, people still visit “Droog Fort” for the views and hiking, and this is precisely why I recommend it.
Located 1828m above sea level, the views from Pakkasuran Peak and what is left of “Droog Fort” are incredible if you go on a clear day! Like everywhere in India, it’s possible to reach by public transport, and here’s here:
Head to Coonoor Bus stand and ask for the bus towards “Droog Fort and Pakkasuran”. Locals will definitely help you find the right one. It should take only 45 minutes and cost 13 INR. The bus should drop you off at “Droog Bus Stop” here.
Once you get off the bus, you need to walk around 45 minutes along a dirt track. You can drive along or even ride your bike up to a certain point, but then need to walk. On a clear day, you’ll be greeted with amazing views of the tea plantations and Nilgiri hills. To be sure you’re going the right way, check out the route on All Trails.
6. Visit Bedford High Street
When I first realised that the area in Upper Coonoor is called Bedford, I cracked up. If you’re not British and don’t have any idea what kind of place “Bedford” in the UK is, it’s basically a really boring market town, very much not like Coonoor.
But yeah, unlike the UK Bedford, Bedford Rd in Coonoor is the place to be; it’s nice to walk around and pop into the shops and cafes. My favourites are the Birdhouse Cafe, Moody’s I just mentioned, a beautiful shop called Koohoos that sells handcrafted products and Gaia Pottery.
7. Ride the Nilgiri train from Coonoor to Mettupalayam
Surprised that this one is the last?
It’s last for three reasons: (1) I didn’t actually ride the toy train, so I feel I can’t give you my honest opinion, (2) it’s super touristy and needs to be booked far in advance, and (3) there’s more to Coonoor than the train.
But, what I can pass on from other travellers staying at the Birdhouse Hostel is that the journey from Coonoor to Mettupalayam is far nicer and scenic than from Ooty to Coonoor, so bear that in mind if you want to do the journey.
Where to Eat?
Despite its small size, Coonoor has insanely good food. Here are my local and Western food recommendations:
- The BirdHouse Cafe ($$): Owned by the same people as the Birdhouse Hostel, this cafe serves burgers, sandwiches, and baked goods. It’s a great lunch spot if you’ve been eating Indian food for weeks and want a little break.
- Sri Lakshmi Cafe ($): pure vegetarian goodness! I had the best Masala Dosa here before catching my bus to Mysore.
- Hotel Ramachandra ($/$$): Located in Lower Coonoor, this authentic restaurant serves Niligri food. Try the Wellington Parotta and Niligri chicken curry.
- Annai Mess Non Veg Fish Mess ($): delish Tamil Nadu dishes served on traditional banana leaves.
- Nutty Waffy Taffy ($/$$) is a sweet cafe in Bedford that serves waffles, club sandwiches, and burgers.
- Cherrie Berry next to Highfield Tea Factory ($$): serving vegetarian, organic food
Ok, that’s a round-up of what to do in Coonoor, perhaps the best-kept secret of the Nilgiris. I hope this post has convinced you to visit Coonoor rather than its popular sister, Ooty, and perhaps that while the Nilgiri toy train is pretty cool, there’s far more to the Nilgiri mountains and Coonoor than that.
Oh, and stay at the Birdhouse Hostel Coonoor. You won’t regret it!
