If you’re reading this, Afghanistan might be next on your travel list. I spent last year exploring the country independently—without a guide—and I’m here to share the best places to visit along with practical transport tips to help you navigate safely. Let’s dive in!
Kabul
First up, Kabul. I spent four days here and absolutely loved it. We stayed at Afghania Guesthouse in the central neighbourhood of Shahr-e Naw. This is where, as a tourist, you’ll want to be located.
In Kabul, I’d recommend visiting Sakhi Shrine, Babur Garden, Ka Feroshi Bird Market, Sarai Shahzada Exchange Market, and Shahr-e-Naw Park.
I’ve recently published a travel guide to Kabul that goes into more detail on where to stay, what to do in the city, food recommendations, and how to stay safe there. Read it here.
Kabul is the perfect place to establish your base and explore other spots.
Bamyan
Bamyan, home to one of the country’s most historical landmarks, the remnants of the Bamyan Buddhas, which the Taliban blew up in 2001 following orders from Mullah Omar. Despite the physical loss of the Buddhas, it’s well worth visiting the site. While we didn’t physically enter the site (to avoid paying), we instead went to the Roof of the Bamyan hotel to enjoy tea and take in the beautiful view of the UNESCO site from above.
Bamyan is also home to the Hazaras, one of Afghanistan’s most diverse ethnic groups. Primarily Shi’a Muslim, as opposed to the majority Shi’te, the Hazaras are believed to be descendants of Mongols and Central Asia people, and they have long faced persecution in Afghanistan. The warmth we received from the Hazaras of Bamyan was incredible.
I’d advise staying at Noor Band Qala Hotel for AFN 1,500 for a single room or AFN 2,000 for a double. I loved it here; the staff were so kind and hospitable. It’s just across the river, within a 2-minute walk of the main street. For dinner, we went to a restaurant along the main street; if you see them flapping kebabs outside, you know they’ll be fresh.
Band-e-Amir National Park
While you’re in Bamyan, it’s absolutely necessary to take a trip to Band-e-Amir National Park, where a video of the Taliban “iconically” went viral on TikTok, with their RPGs in swan boats. Sadly, the Taliban have banned women from entering a section of the lake, citing that women were not adhering to the hijab rules. But don’t worry, if you’re a female traveller, there’s a spot where you can see the lake from above here.
Getting to Bamyan
If you want to travel from Kabul to Bamyan, you can take a shared taxi (AFN 600) or minibus (AFN 350) from this stand. The journey is around 4/5hours. The road is in good condition, but there’s a lot of traffic leaving Kabul, so it’s best to leave as early as possible.
In Bamyan, you’ll arrive at this terminal, where you can take a private taxi to Band-e-Amir National Park (AFN 2000 total for both ways) and then catch transport back to Kabul.
Herat
Sadly, we were only in Herat for one day and night. But it quickly became my favourite city in Afghanistan, and I wished we had more time there.
Herat was a crucial stop on the Silk Road. It’s the second most populated city after Kabul, with a population of 4 million. Here, given its proximity to Iran, the spoken language is Persian, also known as Farsi. This is why I recommend downloading offline translations of both the Pashtun and Persian languages, along with the respective alphabets.
The Herat Central Blue Mosque is a must. And women can enter, no problem. Locals will be intrigued to see you, and you’ll likely get invited over to enjoy tea. For the mosque, it’s crucial to avoid going at prayer times. Depending on the season, it can be between 4 and 5:30 am, 12 and 1:30 pm, 3 pm and 4 pm, 5.30 pm and 7 pm, and 8 pm and 10 pm.
Next to the mosque, you’ll find the main bazaar. If you’re looking for a traditional outfit, this is the place!
Getting to Herat
For us, Herat was a stop on a five-day road trip to the Minaret of Jam via the infamous central road of Afghanistan — and honestly, I’d 1000% recommend it if you’re up for an adventure and can handle sitting over 40 hours in a bumpy car.
Post coming soon about our journey through Afghanistan’s Central Road
Alternatively, you can fly with Kam Air from Kabul (1.5hrs, approx AFN 6000).
Or take a big AC bus from Kabul to Herat (via Kandahar), which costs around AFN 2000. The bus runs daily, departing from Kabul between 2 pm. and 8 am. The roughest part of the journey is the road between Kabul and Kandahar, which is in terrible condition as it was once the most bombed highway in Afghanistan, but once you hit Kandahar, the road is paved, and the final stretch only takes about seven hours.
Just a heads up, you can’t reserve these buses online in advance, it’s old school, turn up.
Kandahar
We were warned against going to Kandahar, but I loved it. We met the friendliest locals here. As a tourist, I wouldn’t recommend walking alone; it’s a lot to take in. Locals will approach from all angles, out of curiosity. We walked one night through the streets to find food, saw a spot with locals crammed in, and once we finished, the owner refused to accept our money.
It’s likely you’ll know Kandahar because of its association with Mullah Omar and the formation of the Taliban. Sra Jama, or the Red Mosque, is the first place you should visit on your visit to the city. It is popularly known as Mullah Omar’s favourite mosque, and the place he used to invite “friends” like Osama Bin Laden to pray.
Our visit to the Red Mosque at 7 am was incredible. The local imam greeted us, gave us snacks, sang, and made us feel incredibly welcome. This moment, standing with the imam, was a highlight for me in Afghanistan.
Getting to Kandahar
There are big VIP-style buses (with AC, plug sockets, etc) departing from Kabul to Kandahar (AFN 1000) every hour. The journey can take up to 10 hours because of the terrible road conditions. If you’re heading from Kandahar to Herat, it’s AFN 1,000.
Kunduz
We were taken aback by Kunduz, expecting it just to be an overnight stop after the border on our way to Kabul. I’m so glad we decided to stay the night. There’s not much sightseeing to do, but walking around is definitely entertaining enough! Jacob got his haircut, and we had the most delicious kebab and sheryakh.
In Kunduz, we stayed at Five Star Guest House and paid AFN 1,500 for a five-bedroom room. The five beds were definitely not needed, but we were grateful for the space. I’ve also heard that Kunduz Hotel and guest house is excellent, but a little more expensive.
Getting to Kunduz
It’s likely Kunduz will be your first or last stop in Afghanistan. It was our first stop as we crossed the Sher Khan Bandar (Tajik-Afghan border). From the border to Kunduz, we paid AFN 200 for a shared taxi each; for a full taxi, it’ll be AFN 800 and take 1 hour.
If you’re coming from Kabul to Kunduz, expect to pay AFN 1,000 for a shared taxi. The road condition is good in some parts, but very bad in others! The route involves going over the Kushan Pass (3,878m), and right now, there is a lot of construction going on, so the journey takes around 8 to 9 hours.
Chagcharan and the Minaret of Jam
The road less travelled! The central road of Afghanistan is a tough one. Typically, travellers choose to reach Herat via the Kandahar road or by flying. But if you’re feeling adventurous and want to visit the Minaret of Jam—one of the hardest-to-reach UNESCO heritage sites in the world—keep reading.
The Minaret of Jam wasn’t initially on our itinerary, but after connecting with Bart—a Belgian traveller attempting to tick off as many UNESCO sights as possible—over an Afghanistan WhatsApp group, we decided to join him! He hired a local driver to drive through the central road, and boooy, it was a journey.
The 3-day drive from Kabul took us through some of the most remote parts of Afghanistan—past nomads with tents and cattle, camels wandering along the dusty plains and mud-brick villages. Along the way, we shared so much tea and ate fresh bread.
If you’re interested in learning about the landscape and towns on the central road of Afghanistan, I really recommend reading The Places In Between by Rory Stewart. It’s about his journey on foot across the country in early 2002.
Nuristan
Nuristan is high on my Afghanistan bucket list, and while I didn’t make it there on my trip, I’ve heard so many amazing things, and I have big plans to go back to Afghanistan and visit this province.
The Wakhan Valley
As of April 2025, there have been reports that the Wakhan Corridor is open for tourists. The Wakhan Valley and its stunning mountains were one of the reasons why I was drawn to visit Afghanistan in the first place, but unfortunately, it was off limits to tourists in 2024.
I visited the lower part of the Wakhan Valley when I hitchhiked the Pamir Highway, and I can’t wait to visit the upper part when I visit Afghanistan next time.
I know Afghanistan can feel like an intimidating country to travel to—or even just to think about! I hope this short guide on where to visit, along with transport tips, has helped you feel more at ease and confident about exploring this incredible country.
I documented each day trip of my last year over on Instagram (@realttravel). Check it out if you want to see a day-by-day visual representation of what it’s like to travel in Afghanistan.
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